Podzimní Kréta

04.03.2009 kategorie: Cestopisy

Navzdory všem chmurným a deštivým předpovědím, které se nám podařilo před odletem po internetu vyhledat, přivítala nás Kréta již na letišti v Chanje šmolkově modrou oblohou a klidným mořem. K naší převeliké radosti, však nebylo ukázkové počasí výsadou severního pobřeží. Ani v horách při přejezdu na Jih jsme nezaznamenali ni mráčku. A co nás překvapilo snad nejvíc. V Plakiasu se nepohnul ani lísteček !!!

 

Ze soutěsky nečouhal a nestrašil žádný mrak, ze kterého by fičelo! Takže jsme konečně mohli i zde plnými doušky nasát a vychutnat horkou vůni dobromyslu, růží a thymiánu smísenou se všudepřítomnou vůní živých koz i jejich kolegyň na grilu. První i druhý den po příletu jsme tedy programově lenošili (co kdyby si to to počasí rozmyslelo). Užívali si slunce i šnorchlování na pláži Damnoni, na kterou je to z Plakias asi 45minut velmi pozvolné chůze.(voda 25-vzduch25)Paráda!

V pondělí jsme pak s kamarády, se kterými jsme přiletěli vypůjčili napůl autíčko a vyrazili směr Chanja, kde jsme chtěli hlavně do Tržnice pro levné zásoby oliv,sýrů,vína a tak vůbec hlavně zase čichat ty vůůůně.(je to škoda, že doposavad nikdo nevynalezl žádný přístroj který by dovedl vůně zaznamenávat, to by byla Bomba!) Cestou jsme chtěli zajet na pohřebiště v Armeni, nějak nám nedošlo, že v pondělí se nepremává.

Kamarádi, kteří byli na Krétě po prve chtěli ale nejdříve projít staré město Chanju  .

Tu spleť nádherných pitoreskních uliček, kde se všude, kde se jen trochu dá, stojí prostřené stolky taverniček, které vybízejí k posezení a k popíjení a k pojídání mořských potvor.  No a my jsme pochopitelně neodolali a poseděli a popili a pojedli a tak se stalo, že do Tržnice (Aghory), jsme nakonec dorazili, když už se stánky pomalu zavírali.

Cestou domů na Jih jsme se ale ještě zastavili v obci Vríses. Dočetli jsme se totiž, že se tu vyrábí keramické nádoby na úúúžasný ovčí jogurty. A jednu takovou jsme si koupili (tedy i s obsahem 1,5kg). Pak jsme se ještě vykoupali nedaleko Rethymnonu a večer dorazili do Plakiasu.

Druhý den jsme zamířili pro změnu na východ, směr

Spíli,  Agia Galini,  (Řecky znamená Svatá pohoda)Festos,  Agia Triáda,  Matala. 

Po takovém maratonu jsme si pak dali další den troch oraz na městské pláži, která mimochodem taky vůbec není marná.

To ví na Krétě každá hloupá  husa.

Další den jsme pak tentokrát sami s manželem vyrazili zase autíčkem a to přes Myrhios a Selii. Po nádherné vyhlídkové cestě.

No a Frango Kástello. Jedna z nejpříjemnějších a nejútulnějších plážiček přímo pod Benátskou pevností...  Jen tak mimochodem. Prý se zde každým rokem kolem 17.5. zjevuje armáda poražených Řeckých odbojářů, kteří v r.1828 bránili pevnost proti 100násobné přesile Turků.... Psali v jednom průvodci, že ten zástup jezdců na koních a tmavých postav, který se tu objevuje krátce před západem slunce, je snad nějaký druh faty morgány...Mno...ale kdo ví???

A jedeme dál, přes další bílé a modré vesničky na Choru Sfakion... 

Vyfotit město a hurá do serpentýn.

Jak tu může jezdit několikrát denně autobus nechápu, nerozumím...then katalavéno?!?

A nyní teprve, se konečně začíná opožděně vyplňovat předpověď počasí. V horách vjíždíme nečekaně do průtrže mračen a do Vríses pro novou dávku jogurtu sjíždíme krokem. Pak přes Rehymnon po staré známé cestě zpět do Plakiasu. Zde po dešti stále ještě ani památky

Tak nás další den napadlo, že sice najezdíme stovky kilometrů, ale klášter ani pláž v Preveli, což je v podstatě od Plakiasu coby kamenem dohodil a zbytek dojel autem, stále zanedbáváme. Nuže tedy Preveli! A už se zase šplháme horskou cestou vzhůru ke klášteru a už zase zavírám oči (nejsem řidič, tak si to můžu dovolit), abych neviděla ty hlubiny ze kterých se tají dech a těším se až to uvidím v televizi.... Uměli si ale ti mniši vybrat pěkné místečko na bydlení. Jen to ježdění na nákupy jim moc nezávidím.

 

Takže výšky bychom měli za sebou a teď kudy na pláž?

Na mapě to vypadá, jako pohodlná poměrně rovná cesta od mostu u dolního neobydleného kláštera podél potoka (pardon! Megalo Potámosu). Vjíždíme tedy na cestu kterou z kraje stráží pes v boudě. Chvíli se zdá, že vše probíhá hladce a v souladu s mapou.

Ale co to? Proč jedeme zase nahoru...ProKristaPána! Já přeci chtěla na pláž! Copak je ta pláž na kopci??? Ale vycouvat již nelze a tak znovu zatáčky a do kopce a z kopce a do leva a do prava. Víte jak se Řecky řekne zatáčka dolů?

Kata strofí! Konečně jsme zase dole ale nikoli na Preveli, ale těsně vedle. 10 minut přelézání přes pár šutrů je už hračka.  Cestou si ovšem stále opakuji jednu ze tří Řeckých frází, které jsem se naučila...Konečně nadešla ta správná chvíle pro její použití...No a na Preveli pak jdu v prvé řadě ke stánku, kde se prodávají lístky na loď do Plakiasu a táži se : „Pja óra févji to plío ja Plakias, parakaló?". Hurá loďka odplouvá cca za 4 hoďky, což je akurát na koupání i průzkumnou cestu do „pravěku" podél té velké řeky.

Dojem jen trochu kazí turisté na šlapadlech, které lze zahlídnout mezi kmeny palem. 

Takže po 4 hodinkách slunění a šplouchání na jedné z nejkrásnějších pláží (bohužel na můj vkus trochu moc lidí) jsem se zbaběle trhla od zbytku výpravy a ujíždím na malém člunu pro cca 25 lidí směrem k Plakiasu. Zpočátku jsem si myslela, že udělám pár pěkných snímků pobřeží, ale po té co mě na strategickém místě na přídi ohodí první vlna. Putuje fotoaparát do tašky a pak už se jen držím zábradlí a „vysedávám" vlny, jako na splašené kobyle. Když vystupuji v přístavu, jsou jedinou suchou součástí mého oděvu plavky v tašce.

Z otevřeného moře jsem rovněž poprve zahlédla černé mraky nad horami a to mě poněkud zneklidnilo

Další den jsme opět na městské pláži. Počasí se trochu zhoršilo, pofukuje větřík nad horami jsou mraky, ale nad pláží stále svítí slunce a je teplo, ačkoli moře je poněkud neklidné. Večer odlétají kamarádi do Prahy a já sama sobě závidím, když jim s mužem máváme u autobusu a odcházíme do taverny na véču.

Ráno je vše jinak. Vlastně už v noci začíná foukat silný vítr z hor. Říkáme si s mužem-žádná katastrofa-konečně jsme v tom správném Plakiasu bez přetvářky.

Tentokrát vyrážíme na Elafonízi (Prý je to ta vůbec nejkrásnější pláž na Krétě a my ji ještě neviděli)Počasí je trochu větrné, ale je stále velmi příjemně.

Cestou na sever se stavujeme na Mínojském pohřebišti v Arméni. 

Nahoře tedy projedeme kolem Agia Mariny. Zavzpomínáme na naši první Krétu a pokračujeme dále na západ. Na dálnici míjíme první odbočku na Elafonisi. Prý nevadí. Ta druhá cesta je určitě hezčí, praví muž...Projíždíme tedy Kissamos, Platanos a ocitáme se opět na samejch kato strofí a ano strofí. Na štěstí je kolem silnice sem tam i nějaké oplocení.

Manžel vysloví domněnku, že snad kvůli tomu, aby prý ty kozy nespadly ze silnice. 

Takže nahoru a dolů (nedívat se!) a doleva a doprava a nahorudoleva a doludoprava a před námi cedule Elafonisi 56km. No těpic! A v předu nad mořem černý mrak z něhož nekouká kromě blesků vůbec nic pěkného. Ke slavné pláži se blížíme v pěkné průtrži. 

Než však vyhlídneme místo na parkování, jsou mraky fuč. Avšak davy turistů nikoli...Jo jo krásná fotogenická pláž. Jen kdyby tu nebylo tak mokro...No jo no, tak honem vykoupat, dokud svítí slunce a šup na zpáteční cestu ať se nevracíme potmě...

V cestě tu ještě stojí klášter Hrissoskalítissass.  A ten fakt za to stojí!

 

 

Takhle nějak asi vypadá Brána nebeská! 

 

 

Svatý Petr potřebuje vyměnit monitor. Možná si objednal plazmu. 

 

No a teď už opravdu domů, budu muset ty zatáčky přežít po druhé, když jsem na pláži žádnou plio, která by mě zavezla domů, nepotkala...Po pár kilometrech přijíždíme k rozcestí. Doleva je ukazatel Chanja 75Km. Doprava snad jen 54! Takže zkusíme tu druhou cestu? Trnu, že by mohla být ještě horší.....Ale není! Je krásná a široká vejdou se na ni dokonce i dvě auta vedle sebe a vede soutěskou a tunýlkem a jsme v Chanje cobydup. A v Plakiasu dávno před setměním.

Druhý den se konečně naplňují všechny chmurné předpovědi.Venku leje jako z konve a fičí ledový vítr. Kamarádi asi odletěli včas... Sedíme v pokoji a snažíme se vyladit na telce zprávy o počasí.....nic hezkého nás podle nich už nečeká. Na záběrech z Chanji vidíme chodit po ulici lidi v zimním oblečení s chlupatými límci.... Ách jo! Večer uleháme smířeni s tím, že zbytek dovolené prožijeme v taverně, nebo v posteli.

Ráno nás ale čeká další překvápko. Mraky zcela v rozporu se všemi předpověďmi kamsi odtáhli. Nebe je šmolkové, moře klidné jako ovečka a jen vzduch je poněkud chladnější.

Nuže tedy vzhůru na další cesty. Na Krétě jsme již po třetí a stále jsme ještě nenavštívili Iraklion. Severní pobřeží kolem hlavního města, je na první pohled zcela odlišné od Jihu.  Ne že by nebylo krásné, ale je zde znát daleko více přicházející stavební boom.

Knossos má pochopitelně toto období již dávno za sebou. Ani sama nevím, jak se mi podařilo v té tlačenici mezi turisty nafotit takto poměrně čistě jen architekturu. 

No a již je tu poslední den pobytu v Plakiasu. Moře je nádherné a tak se snažíme dohnat zanedbané slunění na pláži Damnoni. Večer nás pak autobus převáží na trajekt na němž trávíme noc v pohodlných křeslech.

Ráno po připlutí do Pírea je 3 hoďky zastávka na Akropoli  , pak nás Leoforío (pardón Autobus) převeze do Patry (se zastávkou focení Korintského průplavu) A v Patře zase Trajekt.  Poslední s Bohem Řeckým břehům.  Na štěstí jsme si vzali kajutu a tak máme možnost si po předešlém trmácení v klidu odpočinout.

Konec cesty autobusem z Ancony do Prahy nemám zdokumentován, ale přejezd přes Alpy za sněžným pluhem byl nezapomenutelnou tečkou za naší pozdní dovolenou.

 

Lucka


Komentáře

06.03.2009 - HARRY
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